View Full Version : ET Street vs Street Radial?
Thacker Returns
02-25-2009, 10:09 AM
Any input?
It seems like everything I read on the internet points to one or the other. Some say that the bias ply regular ET street works better on a manual trans car. Others say the stiffer sidewall ET Street Radial combined with a radial construction works better on a manual car. I am leaning a bit more towards the radials due to the fact that I know that on most cars they produce a slightly better MPH.... I just don't want to get the new tires and be stuck in the same boat of not hooking like I did before I had my suspension upgraded.
So, to some of you faster manual guys, which would you recommend?
Also, I do not plan on stepping up to a full on slick as the car will be driven to and from every track it races on, with the exact tire setup it drives in on.
Also, the ET street weighs about 8-10lbs less per tire than the Street Radial.. I know this should be considered also.
vortech_95-gt
02-25-2009, 11:23 AM
Like you mentioned , On a manual trans Id go with the Bias ply since the sidewalls are softer allowing more flex Thus being more forgiving when you step off of the clutch. I used them (28x11.50) on my old supercharged 95 with a 5 speed and it hooked pretty well as long as you got them hot (long 2nd gear burnout) and also 12 lbs of pressure worked best for me. I never had any luck with that car on a drag radial. I certainly wouldnt choose a tire based on it showing more MPH....Id rather have ET to win races. Just a generalization here but it seems that a lot of Camaro , GTO guys etc always talk MPH when referring to their cars instead of ET. Why is that
Hi-psi
02-25-2009, 11:27 AM
Generally, I would say the ET Street would work better on a manual than an auto. The bias-ply construction of the ET Street absorbs some of the initial shock of a manual car launching and then the same on the gear changes. On an auto, this shock isn't as severe since the driveline is preloaded to an extent. On a drag radial, this shock tends to break them loose since they can't absorb it and transfer this to the surface.
Also in my experience, an ET Street will hook better on the street cold than a drag radial. My experience has always been that drag radials need a lot of heat street or strip to hook any better than a normal radial, where as an ET Street will hook fairly well cold on the street but obviously better heated.
That's my two pennies.
actually the et street has a stiff side wall like the w tires & thats what u need in a stick car.i run 30.13.50 et streets on my stick car it goes 640s 8th mile on motor.but u should call mickey thompson 4 ur self
nolimit89stang
02-25-2009, 11:37 AM
if you knew how to drive you could make the car work anywhere with a fivespeed. i've done it plenty of times. i used 17" dragradials for a long time cause i could get more races with them rather than running a 15", nobody thought i would be able to hook the car good enuff to out run them.
Thacker Returns
02-25-2009, 11:45 AM
if you knew how to drive you could make the car work anywhere with a fivespeed. i've done it plenty of times. i used 17" dragradials for a long time cause i could get more races with them rather than running a 15", nobody thought i would be able to hook the car good enuff to out run them.
You don't think that my car being a torque arm, heavy ass Fbody has something to do with that?
Of course not!
Thacker Returns
02-25-2009, 11:45 AM
actually the et street has a stiff side wall like the w tires & thats what u need in a stick car.i run 30.13.50 et streets on my stick car it goes 640s 8th mile on motor.but u should call mickey thompson 4 ur self
By ET streets, you are referring to the bias ply model and not the ET Street Radial correct? I was under the impression that the radial had the stiff sidewall and the bias ply had the soft sidewall.
Hi-psi
02-25-2009, 11:54 AM
I think he may have been referring to the MT ET Drag Radial and not the ET Street. The ET Streets are basically an ET Drag with about 4 small lines cut down the center. Definitely takes some getting use to on the street. If you're looking for something just to drive back and forth to the track on and keep from having to swap wheels, go with the ET Street. If you intend for the car to see more street use, cruising, driving around, etc, the drag radial may be the better choice.
Thacker Returns
02-25-2009, 12:24 PM
I think he may have been referring to the MT ET Drag Radial and not the ET Street. The ET Streets are basically an ET Drag with about 4 small lines cut down the center. Definitely takes some getting use to on the street. If you're looking for something just to drive back and forth to the track on and keep from having to swap wheels, go with the ET Street. If you intend for the car to see more street use, cruising, driving around, etc, the drag radial may be the better choice.
I had the ET streets before, and driving around on them wasn't a pain at all. The goal here was to have the best hooking tire that I can still use on the street.
331coupered
02-25-2009, 01:23 PM
You need to get you a set of the old firestones, then maybe you'll have a blowout on the highway at 80mph and help society out.
nolimit89stang
02-25-2009, 01:31 PM
You don't think that my car being a torque arm, heavy ass Fbody has something to do with that?
Of course not!
sorry about your luck. you shouldn't have got such a heavy POS. bye the way how much could a caviler spin anyways
Cablebandit
02-25-2009, 02:20 PM
et street bias ply for the camaro. remember to order them one size bigger as the run small compared to an et drag in the same quoted size. See their site for specs
Thacker Returns
02-25-2009, 04:26 PM
et street bias ply for the camaro. remember to order them one size bigger as the run small compared to an et drag in the same quoted size. See their site for specs
I was planning on the 28x11.50 on a 15x10 Street Lite Rim
By ET streets, you are referring to the bias ply model and not the ET Street Radial correct? I was under the impression that the radial had the stiff sidewall and the bias ply had the soft sidewall.
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aron69nova
First Gear
USA
30 Posts
Posted - 11/03/2008 : 2:19:25 PM
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This is a leaf spring car, I have yet to get the clutch (mcleod) I want, so that will be a factor. What tire will work best with a 10-ish second car that will take a big hit of nitrous later on and go mid to low 9's? 383 small block, high-500's in the hp range.
What is the best tire (275/60/15 M/T DR, or 28x11.5 ET Street) for a car like this? Also, why?
1969 Nova
Started life as a 6 cylinder gramma car...
383 Stroker, 6 Inch Rods, Edelbrock E-tec 200 Heads, Super Victor Intake, Pro-Form 950 Carb, Comp Cams 287TKN-R7, 11.1:1 Pump Gas Motor
Tremec TKO, 12 Bolt w/a spool and 3.73's
3350 Pounds with Driver
7.082 @100.05 1/8 mile
EdwardsJ33
Third Gear
USA
448 Posts
Posted - 11/03/2008 : 8:33:51 PM
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Go with the ET Streets. Drag radials are very finicky with a stick car, especially one making the power yours will. You may want to consider the tubes, too, to help stiffen the sidewall, although opinions will vary on this forum. Stay away from the radials, though.
Jim Edwards & His Crew
1956 Chevy Post aka "The Red Baron"
New Best 11.33 @ 120 MPH 10/25/08 (Time for a roll-bar!)
Thanks to Ohio Motor Sports--The One Stop Shop for your Classic or Race Car!
aron69nova
First Gear
USA
30 Posts
Posted - 11/03/2008 : 9:31:56 PM
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Thanks. I have buddies that say to go with the radials, but they all run automatics. I read in other threads the same thing you're mentioning. If I have a suspension that is SET UP NICELY would the radial be ok, or still finicky? I always wonder how Artis Houston's 7 second car can run the same tire I'm talking about. My car is going to be over a second slower, and could not possibly launch as hard as his ever.
1969 Nova
Started life as a 6 cylinder gramma car...
383 Stroker, 6 Inch Rods, Edelbrock E-tec 200 Heads, Super Victor Intake, Pro-Form 950 Carb, Comp Cams 287TKN-R7, 11.1:1 Pump Gas Motor
Tremec TKO, 12 Bolt w/a spool and 3.73's
3350 Pounds with Driver
7.082 @100.05 1/8 mile
sc68z28
Third Gear
USA
221 Posts
Posted - 11/03/2008 : 10:45:54 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by aron69nova
I always wonder how Artis Houston's 7 second car can run the same tire I'm talking about.
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Hey Aron, Artis runs an auto trans, but you knew that
I know it doesn't make sense that a car running 7 sec 1/4 mile times can use a radial and a 10 sec stick car will struggle on the same tire.
Radials did not work on my car and when I talked to the folks at M/T about it, they said they usually don't work on clutch cars. The tech I talked to said he only knew of one guy with a clutch successfully running the radials, he also said the guy had $100K in the car.
---Bill.
68 Camaro, blown 383, 7" 2 disc Advanced clutch, GF5R.
9.40 @142 , 1.330 60'
NEW vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O68yeamBteI
aron69nova
First Gear
USA
30 Posts
Posted - 11/04/2008 : 01:44:52 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by sc68z28
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by aron69nova
I always wonder how Artis Houston's 7 second car can run the same tire I'm talking about.
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Hey Aron, Artis runs an auto trans, but you knew that
I know it doesn't make sense that a car running 7 sec 1/4 mile times can use a radial and a 10 sec stick car will struggle on the same tire.
Radials did not work on my car and when I talked to the folks at M/T about it, they said they usually don't work on clutch cars. The tech I talked to said he only knew of one guy with a clutch successfully running the radials, he also said the guy had $100K in the car.
---Bill.
68 Camaro, blown 383, 7" 2 disc Advanced clutch, GF5R.
9.40 @142 , 1.330 60'
NEW vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O68yeamBteI
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I just figured that even with an auto his car would hit harder because it has something like 1800 horsepower. The day I have a hundred grand in my car will be a long time from now, and most of that will be replacing broken parts probably. That's a lot of clutches and differentials and transmissions.
1969 Nova
Started life as a 6 cylinder gramma car...
383 Stroker, 6 Inch Rods, Edelbrock E-tec 200 Heads, Super Victor Intake, Pro-Form 950 Carb, Comp Cams 287TKN-R7, 11.1:1 Pump Gas Motor
Tremec TKO, 12 Bolt w/a spool and 3.73's
3350 Pounds with Driver
7.082 @100.05 1/8 mile
EdwardsJ33
Third Gear
USA
448 Posts
Posted - 11/05/2008 : 4:20:31 PM
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National Dragster had a nice piece on tire testing earlier this year, and basically Mickey Thompson tested tops, they raved about the drag radials, but they couldn't get them to work with a stick car. I've seen some guys who run Mustangs run them with some success, but for overall consistency with different tracks and conditions, the ET Streets are your best bet.
It is funny how a 7 second car can handle radials but a 10 second stick car can't.
Jim Edwards & His Crew
1956 Chevy Post aka "The Red Baron"
New Best 11.33 @ 120 MPH 10/25/08 (Time for a roll-bar!)
Thanks to Ohio Motor Sports--The One Stop Shop for your Classic or Race Car!
BFXJason
Second Gear
78 Posts
Posted - 11/05/2008 : 8:16:44 PM
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Listen to Jim on this, he knows what he's talking about.
Maybe this will be a good seminar at the banquet - hehehehehe
Stick (no pun intended) with the bias tire. You'll be happier in the end.
1965 Ford Fairlane aka "The Barn Door"
331 Glidden Engine
Liberty 5 speed.
28.0/10.5-15S M/T
9.66 @ 138 MPH
aron69nova
First Gear
USA
30 Posts
Posted - 11/07/2008 : 12:59:17 PM
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Thanks for the info. I talked to a shop a couple days ago about tires. I'm running 8psi or so when I race, and they told me to run closer to 15 (not that high, but that was a starting point). They said the ET street was designed NOT to have as much sidewall flex as a full race tire. Any comments on this? I know a leaf spring car will run differently than one of your 4 link or super heavy cars, but we are all slamming gears here and suffer from many of the same launching issues.
1969 Nova
Started life as a 6 cylinder gramma car...
383 Stroker, 6 Inch Rods, Edelbrock E-tec 200 Heads, Super Victor Intake, Pro-Form 950 Carb, Comp Cams 287TKN-R7, 11.1:1 Pump Gas Motor
Tremec TKO, 12 Bolt w/a spool and 3.73's
3350 Pounds with Driver
7.082 @100.05 1/8 mile
SCOTT D
Fourth Gear
USA
517 Posts
Posted - 11/07/2008 : 3:33:39 PM
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hey aron listen to jason he works for mikey thompson and is gooood friends with billy glidden,who along with jason does all the tire testing for m/t.if jason says it,it is gospel.by the way jason thanx for everything you and m/t does for umtr.
EdwardsJ33
Third Gear
USA
448 Posts
Posted - 11/07/2008 : 7:31:33 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by BFXJason
Listen to Jim on this, he knows what he's talking about.
Maybe this will be a good seminar at the banquet - hehehehehe
Stick (no pun intended) with the bias tire. You'll be happier in the end.
1965 Ford Fairlane aka "The Barn Door"
331 Glidden Engine
Liberty 5 speed.
28.0/10.5-15S M/T
9.66 @ 138 MPH
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks. That's not often said about me!
Jim Edwards & His Crew
1956 Chevy Post aka "The Red Baron"
New Best 11.33 @ 120 MPH 10/25/08 (Time for a roll-bar!)
Thanks to Ohio Motor Sports--The One Stop Shop for your Classic or Race Car!
goinforbroke
First Gear
36 Posts
Posted - 11/10/2008 : 01:14:05 AM
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This is along the same lines. What would be a good choice for a mostly street, occaisional strip car? Also a leaf spring Nova with a mild (450hp/500tq) big block and a RAM diaphragm plate/ organic clutch? Is there a good street tire to use, or would a drag radial/ et street be better? I don't want to just add slicks and pick parts off the track. Thanks!
xxbirch
Third Gear
USA
414 Posts
Posted - 11/10/2008 : 08:25:43 AM
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Same answer, drag radials drive great, hook "poorly", bias ET streets drive "poorly" but hook great.
10.36 with a DNE 5 spd and a 327
Dougs67camaro
Second Gear
USA
62 Posts
Posted - 11/10/2008 : 4:34:01 PM
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You watch. I'm going to prove you guys wrong next year about the et street radials. Atleast on my 400 hp tremec 5 speed car anyway.
1967 Camaro rs/ss. zz4, Fast burn heads, Comp 230/236 510/520 110 lsa hydraulic roller, Comp pro magmum rockers, RPM airgap, pro systems 688 carb, 1 3/4 hustler coated headers, Tko 600, 12 bolt Moser rear w/3.73, true trac, 33 spline alloy axles. 11.90 @ 113.60 first pass spinning bad.
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Edited by - Dougs67camaro on 11/10/2008 4:35:42 PM
EdwardsJ33
Third Gear
USA
448 Posts
Posted - 11/10/2008 : 6:09:14 PM
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Good luck!!! I've seen true street tires hook with a stick car, so I'm sure that it can be done with radials, but that take a ton of suspension tuning and weight transfer. It's just a lot easier with E/T Streets, that's all.
Jim Edwards & His Crew
1956 Chevy Post aka "The Red Baron"
New Best 11.33 @ 120 MPH 10/25/08 (Time for a roll-bar!)
Thanks to Ohio Motor Sports--The One Stop Shop for your Classic or Race Car!
goinforbroke
First Gear
36 Posts
Posted - 11/10/2008 : 6:13:24 PM
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Do the ET Streets put as heavy a shock on the driveline as slicks, or are they a little easier on it? I just want to prevent breakage and still be able to play around at the track.
oldiron
Third Gear
USA
157 Posts
Posted - 11/10/2008 : 6:57:55 PM
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I tried the MT Radials for 2 years and what I found was that they either hooked, or that they just spun. They were very track/temp sensitive. Of course I was trying to get 2 tons moving on a 235 tire. W/the ET Streets (bias) I still break them loose, but you do keep acceleration (losing .3 instead of losing .7 with the radials. They were great at the top end though (very very stable). I'd still be using them if I could get them to work.
66 Plymouth Belvedere vert, 4000 lbs w/me and the rust426 low deck Wedge motor & Jerico!
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http://www.umtrdragrace.com/ sorry guys didnt mean 2 post all that.but im talkin about the standard et streets.hope this helps
Thacker Returns
02-25-2009, 06:34 PM
http://www.umtrdragrace.com/ sorry guys didnt mean 2 post all that.but im talkin about the standard et streets.hope this helps
It does, and makes a lot of sense. I will be ordering the ET streets.
It does, and makes a lot of sense. I will be ordering the ET streets.
ive been stick shift racing 4 a long time & i think u will do better with the et streets.
vortech_95-gt
02-25-2009, 07:07 PM
The ET Streets are basically an ET Drag with about 4 small lines cut down the center. . Not trying to argue but the compound has to be different in some way or the other because Like I mentioned earlier I had a set of 28x11.50 et streets that did ok but not nearly as good as a set of 26x10 Et Drags , same car , same set up. the car was not a monster by any means , just your average supercharged Stang , 545rw , 5 speed , 3420lbs with me in it. And I could leave a lot harder on the ET drags. Maybe I'm mistaken because Ive heard other people say the same thing as you .....that the ET street (Bias) are the same as the Drags with just a few slits cut in it , ...honestly MT would have to prove it to me , LOL , Because they don't work as well , hell if they are the same it must have just been my imagination:wall::bouncy:
Chris
roadrage
02-26-2009, 01:19 PM
The benefit also of the ET streets is that they compensate for a car with less suspension work ad the tires just bite better than drag radials. My auto of the trans brake definently improved 60 ft when I switched from M/t drag radials to ET streets. I have since fixed the suspension issue but switching tires was a cheap remedy in the meantime.
GORILLAVETTE
02-26-2009, 03:05 PM
You need to get you a set of the old firestones, then maybe you'll have a blowout on the highway at 80mph and help society out.
:rollingla:rollingla:rollingla Best advice yet!:rockon:
EAD-fishing
02-26-2009, 03:10 PM
:rollingla:rollingla:rollingla Best advice yet!:rockon:
^^^^^^^:lol: man I missed a shit load of good posts
VIPERBLUELX
02-26-2009, 07:58 PM
Not trying to argue but the compound has to be different in some way or the other because Like I mentioned earlier I had a set of 28x11.50 et streets that did ok but not nearly as good as a set of 26x10 Et Drags , same car , same set up. the car was not a monster by any means , just your average supercharged Stang , 545rw , 5 speed , 3420lbs with me in it. And I could leave a lot harder on the ET drags. Maybe I'm mistaken because Ive heard other people say the same thing as you .....that the ET street (Bias) are the same as the Drags with just a few slits cut in it , ...honestly MT would have to prove it to me , LOL , Because they don't work as well , hell if they are the same it must have just been my imagination:wall::bouncy:
Chris
The ET Street(bias) is a DOT approved tire so the sidewall has to be stiffer than the ET Drag, obviously a tire that wrinkles less is probably not going to hook as good(at least on a manual). I've had the same results as you, I've always 60ft'd better on an et drag than an et street.
The ET Street(bias) is a DOT approved tire so the sidewall has to be stiffer than the ET Drag, obviously a tire that wrinkles less is probably not going to hook as good(at least on a manual). I've had the same results as you, I've always 60ft'd better on an et drag than an et street.
a manual trans car needs the stiff side wall even with a slick that y they make s series slicks
OrangeMach23
02-27-2009, 02:50 PM
It don't matter cause you can't drive!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c192/shotuff23/thackerbeatdown.jpg
GORILLAVETTE
02-27-2009, 02:53 PM
It don't matter cause you can't drive!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c192/shotuff23/thackerbeatdown.jpg
BUZZ KILL!
EAD-fishing
02-27-2009, 02:58 PM
FUCK YOU THACKER!!!!!!!!! BRANDON THACKER YOU SACK OF HORSE SHIT!
vortech_95-gt
02-27-2009, 02:58 PM
a manual trans car needs the stiff side wall even with a slick that y they make s series slicksI always thought it was the other way around , that you needed a soft sidewall for a manual car to take some of the shock out of the initial hit. Without a little flex it would unload the tires or shake horribly..Hmmmm........live and learn. Anyone else have any input on the soft vs stiff sidewall for a manual trans car?
331coupered
02-27-2009, 03:05 PM
FUCK YOU THACKER!!!!!!!!! BRANDON THACKER YOU SACK OF HORSE SHIT!
:lol: Horse shit don't give him that much credit.:D
I always thought it was the other way around , that you needed a soft sidewall for a manual car to take some of the shock out of the initial hit. Without a little flex it would unload the tires or shake horribly..Hmmmm........live and learn. Anyone else have any input on the sof vs stiff sidewall for a manual trans car?
my car on regular 29.5x10.5 teres the side wall up & m/t said it wasnt the correct tire 4 a stick car.& the 30x13.50 et streets ware the same tire as the 29.5x10.5w which both have stiff side walls.call m/t & ask theme c what they tell u
GORILLAVETTE
02-27-2009, 03:14 PM
FUCK YOU THACKER!!!!!!!!! BRANDON THACKER YOU SACK OF HORSE SHIT!
Well....now ya done it! That just pissed off about 200 thousand horses!:uneasy:
vortech_95-gt
02-27-2009, 03:15 PM
my car on regular 29.5x10.5 teres the side wall up & m/t said it wasnt the correct tire 4 a stick car.& the 30x13.50 et streets ware the same tire as the 29.5x10.5w which both have stiff side walls.call m/t & ask theme c what they tell uIm not disputing you by any means , Like I said above "live and learn". Im just saying that Ive always heard it to be the other way around. This is the first Ive heard of recommending a stiff sidewall for a stick car. I can see where if you had the right suspension to absorb the hit then a stiff wall would be good , Ive also heard stiff sidewalls are primarily for the heavier cars also. dont know how true that is though
HemiOrange
02-27-2009, 03:25 PM
.
VIPERBLUELX
02-27-2009, 03:26 PM
a manual trans car needs the stiff side wall even with a slick that y they make s series slicks
I guess every setup is different then, my old 96 Cobra street car would consitantly 60ft 1.40-1.44 on regular 26x10-15 et drags and they certainly weren't stiff sidewall and I only ran 10psi.
vortech_95-gt
02-27-2009, 04:09 PM
I guess every setup is different then, my old 96 Cobra street car would consitantly 60ft 1.40-1.44 on regular 26x10-15 et drags and they certainly weren't stiff sidewall and I only ran 10psi.Thats along the same line of thinking as we, that a soft sidewall would absorb some of the hit when dumping the clutch where as an auto already has Pre load and a stiffer sidewall would actually launch the car harder quicker without wrapping the tire up. i guess it all boils down to what type of suspension set-up you have
Thats along the same line of thinking as we, that a soft sidewall would absorb some of the hit when dumping the clutch where as an auto already has Pre load and a stiffer sidewall would actually launch the car harder quicker without wrapping the tire up. i guess it all boils down to what type of suspension set-up you have
maybe that short of a tire is ok.my car runs the taller stuff & on the nos it .60s in the 1.20s.i quess what ever works 4 u personally but i know m/t says about the tires they make .
Five-o-Joe
02-27-2009, 07:40 PM
I have always heard that you want a stiffer sidewall (in a slick-type tire like the ET Drag or ET Street) on a stick car. I ran a 28x10.5 slick and a 28x12.5 ET Street on the same car and had a 1.42 sixty foot with both (only 430rwhp). In my opinion, there is only a small difference between a ET street and an ET drag. If you adjust the suspension slighty for the ET Street, I think you can get the same 60' out of an ET street and an ET drag. In my opinion, you are NOT going to get the same 60' out of an ET Street Radial when compared to either an ET Street or an ET Drag with a "dump clutch" launch. My experience has been that the ET Street is basically an ET Drag with a few grooves cut in it. The sidewall might be slightly stiffer but not so much that you cannot adjust the suspension slightly to compensate and keep the same 60' as an ET Drag.
I had a 1.300 sixty foot with a 28x10.5 ET Drag and a 5 speed. It was a stiffer sidewall ET Drag.
On my current car, I like the ET Street Radial because I can drive the car to the track and race and drive home and not worry about killing myself if it rains. On the street, there is NO DIFFERENCE between driving on an ET Street or an ET Drag. The only difference is you wont get a ticket driving on an ET Street but you'll still crash if it rains.....guaranteed.
blk91coupe
02-27-2009, 08:25 PM
I have always heard that you want a stiffer sidewall (in a slick-type tire like the ET Drag or ET Street) on a stick car. I ran a 28x10.5 slick and a 28x12.5 ET Street on the same car and had a 1.42 sixty foot with both (only 430rwhp). In my opinion, there is only a small difference between a ET street and an ET drag. If you adjust the suspension slighty for the ET Street, I think you can get the same 60' out of an ET street and an ET drag. In my opinion, you are NOT going to get the same 60' out of an ET Street Radial when compared to either an ET Street or an ET Drag with a "dump clutch" launch. My experience has been that the ET Street is basically an ET Drag with a few grooves cut in it. The sidewall might be slightly stiffer but not so much that you cannot adjust the suspension slightly to compensate and keep the same 60' as an ET Drag.
I had a 1.300 sixty foot with a 28x10.5 ET Drag and a 5 speed. It was a stiffer sidewall ET Drag.
On my current car, I like the ET Street Radial because I can drive the car to the track and race and drive home and not worry about killing myself if it rains. On the street, there is NO DIFFERENCE between driving on an ET Street or an ET Drag. The only difference is you wont get a ticket driving on an ET Street but you'll still crash if it rains.....guaranteed.
What was your combo when you cut 1.30 60ft? Sounds very fast no doubt!
Five-o-Joe
02-27-2009, 09:08 PM
Here was the combo:
10.5:1 363 (R block) with Fox Lake TW heads, hydraulic roller cam (~600 lift), TFS R intake, stock A9L computer with good fuel system, The nitrous works dual stage 75mm Throttle body plate kit set on 200. Trans was a TKO II, 4.10 gear, 28x10.5 slick. Tubular front suspension, 90/10s in front with 175" front springs, Double adjustable rear upper control arms with heim joints, hotchkis lower control arms with urethane bushings, strange adjustable rear shocks and 2 airbags in the rear. Made 560 rwhp 700rwtq on a VERY rich 200 shot (10.8:1 A/F). It ran 6.24 at 112 with a 1.300 sixty foot but spun in second gear. I had more in it with that tune. Later re-tuned it with the 260 pills in it at 11.5:1 A/F and it made 660rwhp 725rwtq but never ran it like that. Then I put a YS trim vortech on it and made 720rwhp with the A9L computer, then it got a 76mm turbo with a FAST XFI system and made 977rwhp and 1022rwtq with the waste gate disabled (just letting it eat), it made 31 lbs of boost. At 17 lbs it made 803rwhp. I tried running it on 17" MT drag radials with the 5 speed at the 803rwhp tune but couldnt stop it at LaGrange and almost wrecked it. Sold it soon after that when I got fed up not knowing how to tune the FAST myself. Hows that for a detailed description ? :)
qkjuicedpony
02-27-2009, 09:13 PM
That thing was fun to drive on the street with 900rwhp Joe....I had fun driving it
blk91coupe
02-27-2009, 09:17 PM
Here was the combo:
10.5:1 363 (R block) with Fox Lake TW heads, hydraulic roller cam (~600 lift), TFS R intake, stock A9L computer with good fuel system, The nitrous works dual stage 75mm Throttle body plate kit set on 200. Trans was a TKO II, 4.10 gear, 28x10.5 slick. Tubular front suspension, 90/10s in front with 175" front springs, Double adjustable rear upper control arms with heim joints, hotchkis lower control arms with urethane bushings, strange adjustable rear shocks and 2 airbags in the rear. Made 560 rwhp 700rwtq on a VERY rich 200 shot (10.8:1 A/F). It ran 6.24 at 112 with a 1.300 sixty foot but spun in second gear. I had more in it with that tune. Later re-tuned it with the 260 pills in it at 11.5:1 A/F and it made 660rwhp 725rwtq but never ran it like that. Then I put a YS trim vortech on it and made 720rwhp with the A9L computer, then it got a 76mm turbo with a FAST XFI system and made 977rwhp and 1022rwtq with the waste gate disabled (just letting it eat), it made 31 lbs of boost. At 17 lbs it made 803rwhp. I tried running it on 17" MT drag radials with the 5 speed at the 803rwhp tune but couldnt stop it at LaGrange and almost wrecked it. Sold it soon after that when I got fed up not knowing how to tune the FAST myself. Hows that for a detailed description ? :)
6.2s with a stick is flying. Wished you could have made some passes with the forced induction setups. Those hp numbers are insane.
BTW: Very nice description!!!
6.2s with a stick is flying. Wished you could have made some passes with the forced induction setups. Those hp numbers are insane.
BTW: Very nice description!!!
ur gona go that fast @ i-40 stick race rite
blk91coupe
02-27-2009, 09:31 PM
ur gona go that fast @ i-40 stick race rite
I wish. Going to hold off on the nos for now and put a lower gear in it to see what I can get it to go na. Plus I'll just be running mt drag rads in it anyway. Got a set of 28-10.5 stiff slicks for some real times!
Five-o-Joe
02-28-2009, 07:56 AM
That thing was fun to drive on the street with 900rwhp Joe....I had fun driving it
Now the truth comes out..... :)
Seriously, I'm glad you got to drive it.......it was insane. It wasn't the going that ever made me nervous....it was the stopping.
6.20s was pretty quick with a clutched 5 speed at the time although the knat was around about that same time and it was faster. I'm sure my old coupe had some 5.90s in it the way it sat but I changed combos before I ever laid down that #. Honestly, I wish I still had that combo. It ran 6.70s on motor on 93 pump gas
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