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[IggyBcool]

What do I need to put a 1G/JDM 6-bolt short block into my Manual Trans
> Turbo 2G?
> ================================================== ==============================
>
> For a Short Block replacement, keeping all else 2G and stock;
>
> You will need a COMPLETE 6 Bolt short block with pan, from flywheel to the
> timing belt cover. The 1G timing belt cover will need to be modified to
> accommodate the 2G motor mount. The flywheel type will need to matched
> your
> manual trans type, AWD or FWD.
>
> All DSM clutch are the same, AWD FWD 7Bolt and 6Bolt.
>
> One bolt on the front of the transmission will not have a place to thread
> into
> the 6 bolt block, and is usually backed up with a nut.
>
> 2G Starter/transmission alignment plate.
> 2G motor mount (modified to fit 1G water pump)
> 2G Alt
> 2G AC compressor mounting bracket and compressor
> 2G water pump pulleys
> 2G PS pump bracket mount and 2G PS bracket
>
> 1G or 2G crank pulley
> 1G or 2G Dip stick tube and stick.
>
> Use 2G sensors to go with your 2G ECU;
> TPS, Knock, Water Temp for ECU, Water Temp Gauge, Oil Pressure switch for
> the
> idiot light, Oil pressure sender for the gauge, and O2 sensors.
>
> The oil filter assembly should match the type of cooler you are going to
> use.
> 91'-92.5' were 6-bolt and water/oil cooled.
>
> The water pipe and water neck will be 2G to match the 2G head, so the
> plumbing
> will be all set to feed a Water/Oil type oil cooler. Save the 2G oil
> supply
> lines for the cooler, and your turbo setup.
>
> The 2G head will need to have the head stud holes made bigger to
> accommodate the
> 6-Bolt head studs.
>
> The 2G crank signal will have to be replaced with a simulated Crank signal
> from
> a 1G CAS. (See the RRE 1G CAS info pages)
> Http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
>
> You will need to build/buy a wiring harness for it.
>
> Be prepared to buy DSMLink and 95-E-Prom ECU if your Stock ECU is unhappy
> with
> the simulated Crank signal. Its the only viable solution to eliminating
> false
> Random Misfire detection if the problem occurs.
>
> ================================================== ==============================
> What if I also have a 1G head?
> ================================================== ==============================
>
> Use a;
> 1G intake manifold.
> 1G water neck with the radiator cap.
> 1G thermostat
> late 1G coil pack
>
> Make a custom TB elbow for your late 1G or 2G TB. The EGR system can be
> disabled
> or you can plumb a 2G map sensor and appropriate vacuum lines to a 2G EGR
> valve.
>
> See EGRhose.gif in the files section -
>
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dsm1gina2g/vwp?.dir=/EGR&.dnm=EGRhose.gif
>
> Make a bracket to mount the 2G injector resistor pack to the 1G intake
> manifold.
>
> The shifter counter weight on the transmission is typically cut off to
> make room
> for the lower radiator hose with a 1G water pipe.
>
> Water pipe, and oil filter assembly selection will depend what oil cooler
> you
> decide to use.
>
> 1G or 2G water/oil cooler uses a 91'-92.5' 1G water pipe with water
> fittings
> and a 91'-92.5' oil filter housing.
>
> 1G/after market air/oil coolers uses a 90' 1G water pipe without water
> fittings
> and a 90' 1G oil filter housing with an air/oil cooler in three possible
> flavors:
>
> 1. Aftermarket air/oil cooler with custom hoses and custom mounting
> 2. 90' 1G factory oil cooler with factory hoses and custom mounting
> 3. 97+ automatic transmission fluid cooler with factory hoses, a 97+ front
> bumper with ducting and factory mounting hardware.
>
> ================================================== ==============================
> How do I get rid of the Random Misfire studder and check engine light?
> ================================================== ==============================
>
> RM (Random Misfire)The ECU is flagging a misfire condition because the
> crank
> sensor which originally drove the hyper accurate signal for the 2G ECU has
> now
> been replaced and simulated by the not so accurate 1G CAS. The only
> remedies
> for this symptom once you have it is:
>
> 1. Start over again and do it the original RRE way by modding the oil pump
> case
> and keep the crank signal. RRE does not do it this way anymore, so why
> would
> you?
>
> 2. Wire in a potentiometer on the barometric sensor wire going to the
> ECU,thereby fooling the ECU into thinking you are at very high elevation
> (low
> barometric pressure) so it doesn't check for RM. This sounds simple, but
> if you
> don't tune the engine to compensate for the additional timing, you will
> end up
> turning your piston's to goo which also kills your turbo. (Not a
> recommended
> fix)
>
> 3. Cutting the TPS sensor wire. This actually appears to work for some
> people,but since TPS is useful for data logging and tuning, its not a good
> long
> term fix. This may also effect engine performance during times when the
> ECU uses
> rapid changes in throttle position.
>
> 4. Buying DSMLink and clicking a tiny little checkbox which basically
> disables
> the ECU logic that checks for RM.
>
> ================================================== ==============================
> Is there a step by step set of instructions on how to do the swap?
> ================================================== ==============================
>
> You are looking at them.
>
> Step by step instructions have their value in this world for some things,
> but I
> don't think this is one if them. There are too many variable. JDM
> motors, for
> example, have lots of different water necks and intake manifolds depending
> on
> what car they came out of. Some people want to use 2G heads and water
> necks,
> some people have Big FAT turbo's with external WG etc etc etc..
>
> If you are smart enough to do the swap, you don't need my step by step
> instructions. Please see a reputable speed shop (preferably one that
> actually
> races cars and stands behind their work) if you want this kind of work
> done
> right.
>
> Justin